Noshima Suigun

The restaurant faces the Murakami Kaizoku Museum in Miyakubo and looks onto the Miyakubo Strait, where the tide runs hard enough to raise whirlpools. It serves seafood rice bowls and sashimi set meals, and the local co-op's 10kt madai sea bream turns up on the menu. The charcoal shichirin barbecue costs ¥2,800 a head for two or more and takes 90 to 120 minutes, with shellfish, a squid skewer and prawns in each portion. You buy a ticket at the machine by the entrance and hand it to the staff.

Shimanami Japan's guide puts the museum about a kilometre along the coast from Miyakubo Port, where the Blue Line turns inland, so lunch here is a short out-and-back. The same operator runs tidal-current boat trips from 9:00 to 15:00, and the covered barbecue tables stay usable in rain.