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Winter 2026/27, then spring riding · 6 pieces

The Journal

Take your time with these long reads on Japan.

A road bike leans at a fishing harbour below the Toyohama Bridge on the Tobishima Kaido.

The cover story

How do you ride the Tobishima Kaido as a quieter day after Shimanami?

Start at JR Aki-Kawajiri and cross seven bridges to Okamura, where a 23-minute ferry carries you over to Omishima for the night. The boats set the shape of the day, so plan lunch around them.

feature8 min readHiroshima · Ehime

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nimame / Wikimedia Commons
Nozawa Onsen village sits under the snowy ski runs of Mount Kenashi in January02

feature9 min readNagano

Should you stay in Nozawa Onsen instead of Hakuba?

Nozawa suits riders who want to walk from the inn to the lifts in the morning and to a free village bath at night, on one big mountain at ¥7,800 a day. Hakuba suits anyone who wants ten resorts on one ticket and Epic Pass days.

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No. 03 · feature

When can you ride Norikura, Shibu Pass and the Japan Alps Cycling Road?

Norikura's car-free road opens to bikes from 1 July to 31 October. Shibu Pass runs from late April to mid November, and the 800 km loop round Nagano breaks into station-to-station days.

9 minutes to read

The Norikura Echo Line winds in switchbacks across the green alpine slopes below the summit ridge.
Nozawa Onsen village sits under the snowy ski runs of Mount Kenashi in January.05

feature10 min readNagano · Yamagata · Niigata

Which ski-hill onsen towns are best for a soak after the last lift?

Nozawa puts thirteen free public baths a short walk from the lifts. Kusatsu is the clearest answer for tattooed riders, and Shibu and Ginzan give their best baths to the people who stay the night.

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