Hotel Innoshima

The hotel, once Innoshima Lodge, sits inside Innoshima Park on Tengu-yama, ground that sits in a special zone of the national park and looks over the islands toward the Shikoku mountains on clear days. Every room faces the sea. Western rooms are twins, the six-mat Japanese rooms suit families, and only the two Deluxe Twins have their own bath, so most guests use the large view bath with its sauna.

Dinner is kaiseki, with menus that change every two months, and a cheaper plan swaps it for a daily set meal. The hotel bus from Habu port carries two bikes at a time if you ask when you book. Check-in is from 15:00, and checkout is an early 10:00.